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I appreciate the message put forth by the author in terms of striving for a green future, but I found the book quite pretentious with unnecessary drawn out and overly descriptive narratives. I love surfing and practice mindfulness and meditation Along with the beautifully illustrated hardback cover, this book looked to be right up my street It wasn t It was disappointing Much of the book is so pretentious I wondered what the hell the author was actually trying to say it was painful to read Some sections were interesting and redeemed it from a 1 star review ancient surfing in Hawaii and, surprisingly, China But on the whole I wouldn t bother Just go surfing and enjoy the b I love surfing and practice mindfulness and meditation Along with the beautifully illustrated hardback cover, this book looked to be right up my street It wasn t It was disappointing Much of the book is so pretentious I wondered what the hell the author was actually trying to say it was painful to read Some sections were interesting and redeemed it from a 1 star review ancient surfing in Hawaii and, surprisingly, China But on the whole I wouldn t bother Just go surfing and enjoy the beauty of the ocean and the calm, wonderful headspace surfing brings I picked up this book from a local used bookstore but this book was a new one , as usual, after browsing the Sport section to check yet another surfing book Because I was with my friend I didn t fully browse this book before purchasing and my friend paid for it thankfully.The beginning was fine Too much Zen stuff without adding his own experience but there were some interesting sentences based on his own experience here and there But Once he starts mentioning egology to ecology I I picked up this book from a local used bookstore but this book was a new one , as usual, after browsing the Sport section to check yet another surfing book Because I was with my friend I didn t fully browse this book before purchasing and my friend paid for it thankfully.The beginning was fine Too much Zen stuff without adding his own experience but there were some interesting sentences based on his own experience here and there But Once he starts mentioning egology to ecology I started seeing some red sign When he started dropping Heidegger I got warned Others and Marx I thought I was done with this book.The last two chapters, which I completely skipped, were when he thought surfing could be radicalized and political, adding his surf travel in West Africa He is from the UK And tried to intervene in Taoism and surfing while talking about surfers in China Yes, a classic case of applying his own thoughts He said the localism is stupid and no one owns the waves not his verbatim Okay, let me point out just one thing Being territorial is just a part of human nature and once you start surfing at your local spot as he also pointed out over and ever again, in various conditions, you start feeling that the spot is your friend or something not necessarily owning When you see some newbies doing their kook things at your spot Or playing so well with your own friend catching all the waves , you will naturally feel being protective Let s admit this and start from there Then we can talk about why there is no localism at Bali and these local surfers at Bali won t be able to be newbies at some rugged breaks in the UK Why are there so many Gringos in Mexico but not Mexicans in San Diego.Super naive and waisted my friend s money Since it s a hardcover, I can t even rip this book off and put it in the trash can, so no one can read I will need to think about what to do with this book Un libro realmente decepcionante Sin estructura ni hilo conductor, es un ejercicio de escritura autom tica realizado por un surfista mucho m s ducho en el noseriding que en el typewriting Los ejercicios de meditaci n que propone son de un infantilismo que raya con el rid culo Su concepci n de conciencia plena ecol gica es de una gran inconsistencia filos fica La traducci n al espa ol est al mismo y baj simo nivel La traductora demuestra no tener conocimiento alguno de la terminolog a d Un libro realmente decepcionante Sin estructura ni hilo conductor, es un ejercicio de escritura autom tica realizado por un surfista mucho m s ducho en el noseriding que en el typewriting Los ejercicios de meditaci n que propone son de un infantilismo que raya con el rid culo Su concepci n de conciencia plena ecol gica es de una gran inconsistencia filos fica La traducci n al espa ol est al mismo y baj simo nivel La traductora demuestra no tener conocimiento alguno de la terminolog a del surf Una revisi n t cnica no le hubiera hecho ning n da o al texto Incluye una bibliograf a de cierto inter s Loved this book, it flowed through me and made sense I ve enjoyed this book A bit different from the majority of my reading, but it s done something worthwhile a fork in the road sent me off in a different reading direction As a child of the water, it chimed with me I ve always loved the sea, because the land based stuff just can t get out there It was Mindfulness before I knew what that meant Also there s interesting history and culture in the narrative, and ideas for the future And now closing this book I can think only of opening map I ve enjoyed this book A bit different from the majority of my reading, but it s done something worthwhile a fork in the road sent me off in a different reading direction As a child of the water, it chimed with me I ve always loved the sea, because the land based stuff just can t get out there It was Mindfulness before I knew what that meant Also there s interesting history and culture in the narrative, and ideas for the future And now closing this book I can think only of opening maps and searching out that fresh swell to see where it might take me Really interesting insight into Sam s thoughts on surfing and it s cultural impact Has some mindfulness exercises to bring mindfulness into your surfing, which is great *DOWNLOAD EBOOK ☠ Mindfulness and Surfing: Reflections for Saltwater Soul ↹ Mindfulness and Surfing casts a fresh perspective on this popular extreme sport, and explores how riding the waves can be the ultimate meditation Engaging author Sam Bleakley takes us off on his longboard with a soulful journey across the tideline of his personal and philosophical travels Through lunar cycles and river surfing to the Taoism of nature, he reveals an acute awareness of what the oceans can tell us about our place in the natural worldMeditating on one of nature s greatest elements its salty swells, flows and peaks he shares life lessons in mindfulness that surfer and non surfer alike will relish Interesante sobre todo porque habla mucho de la historia del Surf, pero en ocasiones es demasiado egoc ntrico. I m a saltwater soul Never tried surfing I loved this book It s so relaxing and beachy I loved the mindfulness exercises especially Being at the Beach I am a Type A personality on steroids Ironically, whenever I have tried to meditate I fall asleep within minutes I kept telling everyone I sucked at it My friend said no you are fantastic at it I can fall asleep at the beach with the greatest of ease Much faster than I can if I am in a bed Water is powerful Knowing how to relax y I m a saltwater soul Never tried surfing I loved this book It s so relaxing and beachy I loved the mindfulness exercises especially Being at the Beach I am a Type A personality on steroids Ironically, whenever I have tried to meditate I fall asleep within minutes I kept telling everyone I sucked at it My friend said no you are fantastic at it I can fall asleep at the beach with the greatest of ease Much faster than I can if I am in a bed Water is powerful Knowing how to relax your mind and soul is priceless I really loved this book